![]() ![]() ![]() There are no vacuum leaks in the booster. Everything was put back the way it was found, but now it seems like the pedal is harder to push. However, when I put the master cylinder back on, it seemed like the booster was not working as well either. I also checked the power booster for the right adjustment length on the push rod, and it is correct. Remove the master cylinder cover, and carefully press the brake pedal once, and once only. Loosen the right-rear brake bleed screw (A) to allow air to escape from the system. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, and then apply pressure. New Master Cylinder, calipers,wheel cylinders, brake lines and brake hoses the whole enchilada. Make sure the brake fluid in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line. Make sure the hose isn't all the way in the bottom of the jar, or it'll impede flow. I have replaced my entire brake system on my 1969 El Camino. Connect the hose to the bleeder screw, put it into the jar, and open the bleeder. Do the lines need to be bled again? I cannot imagine there is any air in the system. Get a glass jar and a piece of vacuum hose, or aquarium air line tubing. However, as soon as I start moving at driving speed the pedal loses pressure and goes to the floor. I noticed that when I am not moving or only edging forward, I have a mostly solid pedal and the brakes work. My problem is that the brakes still do not work. Connect a bleed tube to the brake bleed nipple on the right rear wheel and place the end of the tube in a clear container. This bleeder wrench is straight and has a 3/8 and 5/16 hex-head on each end (the hex-head helps to prevent. (This pressure should not be exceeded for efficient bleeding). Pumped three times, on the third time, partner held, I loosened bleeder valve, then shut the valve before the brake pedal stopped moving down to the floor. Pressurize Eezibleed by connecting the air line to a pressure source, preferably your spare tire - bleed it down to about 20 psi. Kept master cylinder topped off, and bled each wheel until no more air was coming out of the lines. I also used a clear tube immersed in brake fluid to watch for bubbles, and a partner pumping the brake. Bled each wheel eight times in the correct order from farthest to closest to the master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder, and bled all the wheels in the proper way. I recently installed a new master cylinder and power booster, and one new set rotors, one set of new bearings, one set of new calipers, and 1 set of new brake pads on the front brakes for my vehicle.
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